Some life lessons are best expressed through an “everything I need to know about (x) I learned from (y)” statement. Like, Everything I need to know about love and relationships, I learned from Tom Waits (future book title), or Everything I need to know about opera, I learned from Loony Tunes (figaro, Figaro, FIGARO!). There are certain of these axioms I’d love to apply, like the Anthony Bourdain tenet of locative gastronomy – Everything I need to know about local food, I’ve learned from five star chefs (the closest I’ve gotten was an Istanbul self-date). Until the Travel Channel comes knocking with Bourdain’s budget, I’m sticking closer to: Everything I need to know about a location’s food and culture, I learned from Andrew Zimmern. Continue reading “Locative Gastronomy and Rasha’s Baba Ghanouj Recipe”
On Friday, April 1, we all went to the Khan El Khalili in Islamic Cairo, located at the apex of al-Qahira, the walled old city. Over time, this structure has included a souk or suq – a commercial area or quarter- as well as a caravanserai – a roadside inn for travelers, and is a walled-in area with one traditional entrance way. The site also includes the Sultan al Ghuri complex, a Khanqah, Mausoleum, Sabil-Kuttab, Mosque and Madrasa in the Fahhamin Quarter, al Mu’izz li-Din Allah street in Islamic Cairo. Since the 1500s, this site has been a multi-use structure – sacred, commercial and lodgings. The traditional entrance/exit gate still stands today, and you can see the areas in the architecture where boiling oil was poured on potential invaders. Inside this area are warrens full of stalls selling all kinds of cool things, and the shoppers seem to be tourists and Egyptians alike.
During our visit, we wandered into a carpet store. My nephew asked if they sold flying carpets. The proprietor responded, “No, but we have repaired carpets over 500 years old, and from as far away as Russia.” Pretty cool.
(As an interesting piece of info – wikipedia notes the following about the word suq: “In Modern Standard Arabic the term refers to markets in both the physical sense and the abstract economic sense (e.g., an Arab would speak of the souq in the old city as well as the souq for oil, and would call the concept of the free market السوق الحرّ as-sūq al-ḥurr.)”
Walking through Old Cairo, and specifically Coptic Cairo off of Sharia Mar Girgis , you walk through the various stages of the city’s history. Cairo: The Family Guide describes it as providing “a visual history of Cairo’s growth and evolution.” An important key to this evolution is religion, and the ways it manifest itself on the city, and Egypt as a whole. Walls here date back to 100 CE when the Roman Emperor Trajan built a fort known as the Babylon of Egypt. A five block walk from the metro passes spaces sacred to Christianity, Islam and Judaism (in historical order)– including the crypt where The Holy Family supposedly hid from Roman soldiers on their flight from Herod, the Ben Ezra Synagogue and eventually the Amr ibn al As mosque. Along the way, you pass The Hanging Church, the round Church of St George, and churches of Sts. Barbara and Sergius as well as the Coptic Museum
Laura, my host, companion and guide, had been reading The Crusades by Thomas Asbridge. Cairo is an amazing example of how much secular politics have created false geographical as well as other constructs in MENA, and how early these constructs began. Not that the 20th century didn’t have a large impact on the overall area – as evidenced by the fact that Pakistan is an acronym: : Punjab, North-West Frontier Province (Afghan Province), Kashmir, Sind, and BaluchisTAN. In Cairo, and as I understand it, Egypt, these constructs started to directly effect the country with its entry into the Byzantium Empire, or around the first century CE. Egypt has been an empire itself, then a central part of the following: Persian Empire, Ptolemaic Kingdom, Byzantine, Muslim Arab Caliphate and Ottoman Empires. By the 7th century, Cairo was a Muslim city and remains so to this day. In The Crusades, Asbridge makes note of how the Arabs and Muslims in Cairo saw the infidels invading their lands (aka The European Crusaders) as pagan polytheists, who believed in 3 gods instead of one true god.
The Coptic Museum also reflects a lot of Egypt and how its history is so entwined with religion and war, present and past. It’s amazing how proud this city is of its Coptic history (it is basically the seat of the religion the Council of Chalcedon in AD 451.) The items on display demonstrate how Christianity and its imagery developed from the polytheist gods of Old and New Kingdoms of Egypt and later Rome and Greece. Interestingly, its artifacts span the 3rd century to the 19th, and are housed in a 20th century building that meshes modernism with the aesthetic of the ancient culture it displays, as the images depict cultures combining.